Marie Wilkinson Elle Interview

Design Director at Cutler and Gross, Marie Wilkinson talks to Elle Romania about the British wit and boldness, the importance of trends and history, personal style and stories behind the brand.

BY MAURICE MUNTEANU, FROM ELLE ROMANIA

1. What is the story behind the first pair of sunglasses Cutler and Gross?

The first pair of glasses to receive a model number was 0101 and was made in our factory in Cadore, Italy in 1982. It was special because it was the first pair ever to be made by Cutler and Gross in a factory and was part of a production run of only 100 pieces. Prior to this pair, each pair of Cutler and Gross glasses was a bespoke order and made one by one for an individual customer in the workshop above the store at Knightsbridge Green by frame maker at the time – Mr George Smith. In those days, it was very difficult to find skilled frame makers so to satisfy our increasing demand. Mr Cutler and Mr Gross turned to Italy to their long tradition of glasses making to increase production levels.

2. I discovered this brand ten years ago, in an extremely chic boutique in Marais. Obviously, I bought a pair of sunglasses of an adorable shade – Dark Turtle for myself. Since then, I have been wearing them constantly and they are still in impeccable state.

What is the philosophy behind this brand? What are the secrets of the manufacturing process?
I have to say, 10 years is not an unusual long lifetime for a pair of Cutler and Gross sunglasses! They are built to last. Our glasses are made to the same high standards now as they always have been.‎ Each pair of sunglass or optical goes through a 42 step process, implemented by 30 skilled frame makers in our factory in the Dolomites, Northern Italy. ‎I believe that when a true artisan makes a beautiful object they leave part of themselves within that object and this is true of Cutler and Gross glasses.

3. I was reading in the notebook that comes with every single Cutler and Gross support what Graham Cutler said: ‘My idea of design is a bit old-fashioned. It should be practical, functional, and then look good – in that order’. On the other hand, Tony Gross used to say: ’It’s nice if glasses can be sexy & mysterious’. In short, what are the main qualities that a pair of Cutler and Gross sunglasses has?
I would say that the glasses perfectly encapsulated both philosophies: Sexy and Mysterious. The glasses had integrity, sincerity and are thoughtfully designed. I personally want to be seduced by good design.

4. How has your journey at Cutler and Gross started?
I was introduced to Mr Gross as I graduated from Optical College and I shall never forget my early years at Cutler and Gross, making bespoke glasses for famous actors and architects. It has been an incredible journey to take those skills to designing collections all over the world.

5. Is there any kind of special liaison between London and Cutler and Gross?
The brand was born in London and has British sensibilities like wit, humor, individuality and a boldness of style whilst rooted in the British tradition of handmade and bespoke.

6. As Design Director at Cutler and Gross, what is your opinion regarding tendencies when it comes to sunglasses? Do these elements/factors carry any influence upon your creative process?

The creative process involves our design team whose disciplines vary from: optician, product designer, fashion designer and architect and once an idea is hatched, the design construction is considered from all angles.

7. What would the profile of a Cutler and Gross client look like?
Our typical client is passionate about style and good design and a traceability ‎of the provenance of the glasses. They have a strong sense of self and good sense of humor and are leaders in whatever circles they run in, they never follow the crowd.

8. I am absolutely convinced that Cutler and Gross sunglasses will most definitely seduce the fashionistas of Romania. Could you share with us 3 universal style rules regarding accessories, for our readers to follow?
The main rules are to follow what suits you and not to follow a trend. Take care of your glasses‎, clean the lenses with a lens cleaning spray to wash away any grit or dirt and then polish lenses with the cleaning cloth and store glasses in the protective case when not in use. Never buy in a rush. Take your time to select the perfect pair.

9. Personally, I am used to wearing sunglasses also during winters, or when there’s gloomy weather. Would you be so kind as to help me take down the myth which says that sunglasses should be worn solely in the summer?

Sunglasses protect from bright light, it could be sunlight or it could be light in the nightclub. Wear glasses when you want to be shielded from unwanted lights, indoors or outdoors.

Browse through Cutler and Gross collection from current and next season http://bit.ly/cutlerandgrosscollection.